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Days
1-4
Bera
- Biarritz -
Pamplona
We meet in Bilbao and travel a
relatively short distance through
spectacular mountain scenery to the
ancient walled seacoast village of
Fuenterrabía, close to the French
border.
From here we:
Walk through the old walled town, with
spectacular sea vistas at every turn, just
beyond the balconies overflowing with
bright flowerboxes.
Do a little tapas tasting, pintxos, as the
Basques call these delicious appetizers.
The seafood that Fuenterrabíans use
for many of their tapas was swimming out
in that gorgeous blue-green water just
this morning. You can watch the boats
bring it in.
Tour the Bonnat Art Gallery in Bayonne,
France, home to the works of El Greco,
Goya, Murillo, Degas, Rubens, Ingres and
others. The gallery's wonderful
architecture harmonizes nicely with its
world-famous collection.
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Stroll along the same beach that captured
Empress Eugenie's heart, where her
husband, Napoleon III, built a private
sea-side palace for her.
Explore Pamplona, Hemingway's favorite
city and home to the annual "running of
the bulls". We tour the Jewish Quarter in
the old part of Pamplona, and we explore
the ancient route of pilgrims bound for
Santiago.
Days
5-7
Aranzazu - Oñati - San
Sebastian
An
expansive view of San Sebastián's
perfect shell-shaped beach and harbor is
as close as our hotel room balconies.
Sunset is not to be missed! Among the
happy culinary, artistic and cultural
experiences that await us in the heart of
the Basque country:
The Basilica of Arantzazu, an important
Basque shrine for artistic and religious
reasons. The basilica showcases the works
of Basque artists who were finally allowed
to exhibit during the Franco years.
An evening at a private Gastronomic
Society, an all-male club where men
display both their well-developed cooking
skills and their vocal prowess for a small
group of visitors. Between the many
courses, an Ochote, a chorus of 8-12 men,
plumbers, bank presidents, set designers
and many other professions in real life,
sings folk songs from the Basque Country,
Russia, even America.
La Parte Vieja (the old city of San
Sebastián) at the foot of Monte
Urgull. Sidewalk cafes, tapas bars with an
enthusiastic San Sebastian clientele, and
family-owned shops line the
pedestrian-only streets.
The new Chillida Leku, a restored
16th-century farmhouse and grounds filled
with the works of internationally famous
sculptor Eduardo Chillida.
You have a free day in San
Sebastián, a beach resort and food
capital built around one of Europe's most
enchanting shell-shaped bays. Explore this
wonderful city on your own or with the
help of your guides. We suggest a ride up
the funicular for spectacular views of
Monte Igueldo. Relax among the promenaders
as you take in the harbor view from the
beachside benches, or reserve for lunch or
dinner at Arzak. Many critics say it's the
best restaurant in Spain.
Days
6-10
Guernica - Bilbao
On
our way to our five-star hotel in Bilbao,
we drive through more lovely mountain
scenery, with the occasional glimpse of
the sea. We visit:
Guernica, with its oak tree that
symbolizes the ancient roots of the Basque
people and their heritage, law and
freedom. Guernica was the site of the
first saturation bombing by the Nazis,
which inspired Picasso's masterpiece of
the same name. We see the petrified trunk
of the original oak, the young oak planted
beside it, and sculptural monuments to
peace by Henry Moore and Eduardo
Chillida.
Among the highlights of Bilbao, tagged by
Atlantic Monthly Online as the kind of
city that many travelers long for a city
where the streets aren't jammed with
tourists, where, authentic culture hasn't
been assigned to souvenir shops:
The Guggenheim Museum, architect Frank
Gehry's titanium-clad masterpiece of
extravagant, eccentric and whimsical
design, with 19 surprisingly intimate
internal galleries and Jeff Koon's giant
Puppy sculpture made of begonias,
impatiens and marigolds stands guard out
front.
The Riverside Market, a ship-shaped
building with stained glass windows where
vendors sell huge varieties of seafood,
flowers, and olives under stained glass
beauty. Bilbao housewives and
restauranteurs alike come each morning to
acquire the freshest materials to build an
acclaimed cuisine.
The
Bilbao Museum of Fine Arts, a gallery
displaying classical, contemporary and
Basque collections. After you browse,
enjoy a coffee in its tree-shaded patio
and watch the Basque families promenade in
the adjacent park.
The seven winding cobblestone streets in
the old part of Bilbao, revealing at every
turn new architectural and cultural
treats, not to mention bargains for
intrepid shoppers.
We take a short bus ride into the
countryside to lunch in a fine caserio
(Basque farmhouse), where you receive the
royal treatment with native dance, music
and costumes. We take a different scenic
route back to Bilbao, along the coastline.
Our scenic return to Bilbao takes us along
the rugged Basque coastline.
Day
11
Flight
home.
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