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Days 1-4
Bera -
Biarritz - Pamplona
We meet in Bilbao
and travel a relatively
short distance through
spectacular mountain
scenery to the ancient
walled seacoast village
of
Hondarribia-Fuenterrabía,
close to the French
border.
From here we:
Walk through the old
walled town, with
spectacular sea vistas
at every turn, just
beyond the balconies
overflowing with bright
flowerboxes.
Do a little tapas
tasting, pintxos, as the
Basques call these
delicious appetizers.
The seafood that
Fuenterrabíans
use for many of their
tapas was swimming out
in that gorgeous
blue-green water just
this morning. You can
watch the boats bring it
in.
Tour the Bonnat Art
Gallery in Bayonne,
France, home to the
works of El Greco, Goya,
Murillo, Degas, Rubens,
Ingres and others. The
gallery's wonderful
architecture harmonizes
nicely with its
world-famous
collection.
Stroll along the same
beach that captured
Empress Eugenie's heart,
where her husband,
Napoleon III, built a
private sea-side palace
for her.
Explore Pamplona,
Hemingway's favorite
city and home to the
annual "running of the
bulls". We tour the
Jewish Quarter in the
old part of Pamplona,
and we explore the
ancient route of
pilgrims bound for
Santiago.
Days
5-7
Aranzazu -
Oñati - San
Sebastian
An expansive view of
San Sebastián's
perfect shell-shaped
beach and harbor is as
close as our hotel room
balconies. Sunset is not
to be missed! Among the
happy culinary, artistic
and cultural experiences
that await us in the
heart of the Basque
country:
The Basilica of
Arantzazu, an important
Basque shrine for
artistic and religious
reasons. The basilica
showcases the works of
Basque artists who were
finally allowed to
exhibit during the
Franco years.
An evening at a private
Gastronomic Society, an
all-male club where men
display both their
well-developed cooking
skills and their vocal
prowess for a small
group of visitors.
Between the many
courses, an Ochote, a
chorus of 8-12 men,
plumbers, bank
presidents, set
designers and many other
professions in real
life, sings folk songs
from the Basque Country,
Russia, even
America.
La Parte Vieja (the old
city of San
Sebastián) at the
foot of Monte Urgull.
Sidewalk cafes, tapas
bars with an
enthusiastic San
Sebastian clientele, and
family-owned shops line
the pedestrian-only
streets.
The new Chillida Leku, a
restored 16th-century
farmhouse and grounds
filled with the works of
internationally famous
sculptor Eduardo
Chillida.
You have a free day in
San Sebastián, a
beach resort and food
capital built around one
of Europe's most
enchanting shell-shaped
bays. Explore this
wonderful city on your
own or with the help of
your guides. We suggest
a ride up the funicular
for spectacular views of
Monte Igueldo. Relax
among the promenaders as
you take in the harbor
view from the beachside
benches, or reserve for
lunch or dinner at
Arzak. Many critics say
it's the best restaurant
in Spain.
Days
6-10
Guernica - Bilbao
On our way to our
five-star hotel in
Bilbao, we drive through
more lovely mountain
scenery, with the
occasional glimpse of
the sea. We visit:
Guernica, with its oak
tree that symbolizes the
ancient roots of the
Basque people and their
heritage, law and
freedom. Guernica was
the site of the first
saturation bombing by
the Nazis, which
inspired Picasso's
masterpiece of the same
name. We see the
petrified trunk of the
original oak, the young
oak planted beside it,
and sculptural monuments
to peace by Henry Moore
and Eduardo
Chillida.
Among the highlights of
Bilbao, tagged by
Atlantic Monthly Online
as the kind of city that
many travelers long for
a city where the streets
aren't jammed with
tourists, where,
authentic culture hasn't
been assigned to
souvenir shops:
The Guggenheim Museum,
architect Frank Gehry's
titanium-clad
masterpiece of
extravagant, eccentric
and whimsical design,
with 19 surprisingly
intimate internal
galleries and Jeff
Koon's giant Puppy
sculpture made of
begonias, impatiens and
marigolds stands guard
out front.
The Riverside Market, a
ship-shaped building
with stained glass
windows where vendors
sell huge varieties of
seafood, flowers, and
olives under stained
glass beauty. Bilbao
housewives and
restauranteurs alike
come each morning to
acquire the freshest
materials to build an
acclaimed cuisine.
The
Bilbao Museum of Fine
Arts, a gallery
displaying classical,
contemporary and Basque
collections. After you
browse, enjoy a coffee
in its tree-shaded patio
and watch the Basque
families promenade in
the adjacent park.
The seven winding
cobblestone streets in
the old part of Bilbao,
revealing at every turn
new architectural and
cultural treats, not to
mention bargains for
intrepid shoppers.
We take a short bus ride
into the countryside to
lunch in a fine caserio
(Basque farmhouse),
where you receive the
royal treatment with
native dance, music and
costumes. We take a
different scenic route
back to Bilbao, along
the coastline. Our
scenic return to Bilbao
takes us along the
rugged Basque
coastline.
Day 11
Taxi the
airport for your flight
home.
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