The Fiesta de Sanfermín
& Feria del Toro
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eight
days of the encierro -
the "running of the
bulls"
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|Santo
Domingo
| Mercaderes
| Estafeta
| Telefonica
| Callejon
| Plaza
de
Toros|
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SANTO
DOMINGO:
The
adventure
begins near the
coral at the
bottom of
Pamplona's
C/Santo Domingo
as the first
rocket is fired
announcing the
beginning of
the day's
encierro.
It can be
dangerous to
linger too long
in this narrow
pathway. You
can almost
reach out and
touch the
buildings on
either
side. If
this is your
first time you
glance quickly
around at the
faces in the
crowd not
knowing what to
expect.
Suddenly a
cheer goes up
as the rocket
begins to climb
into the summer
sky, the rising
sun, still low
on the horizon,
blinds you for
a moment.
By now the lead
runners have
inched their
way down Santo
Domingo towards
the holding
pen. Suddenly
they stop dead
in their tracks
and surge back
up the slopping
street as the
bulls suddenly
erupt from
their holding
pen full of
pent up energy.
Quickly
overtaking the
first runners,
the lead
animals part
the crowd,
allowing the
steers to lead
the way for six
massive
fighting
bulls.
Nervous at
first, the
bulls keep
their heads
low, their
bodies
touching,
forming a
dangerous
wedge. You feel
the adrenaline
rush, your
heart pounds in
your ears, the
herd rushes by
like the wind
and hopefully
youÄôve
survived the
ordeal
unscathed.
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AYUNTAMIENTO
&
MERCADERES:
The route
widens at the
top of Santo
Domingo as it
enters Plaza
Consistorial
and
Ayuntamiento,
the town hall
square. If you
started your
run toward the
top of Santo
Domingo, and
are lucky
enough to have
reached the
palza one step
ahead of the
bulls, runnng
as fast as your
feet will carry
you, you either
dive for cover
under the
nearest
barricade or
continue
headlong,
racing across
the plaza
towards the
entrance to
Mercaderes on
your left. Here
the street
narrows once
again, but is
smooth, with
stone pavers.
the bulls,
having crested
Santo Domingo
in a matter of
seconds, will
slow their pace
slightly if the
streets are
still in the
lead, but the
fighting bulls
are younger and
faster than
steers and may
have already
overtaken the
lead steer,
increasing the
danger.
If you go down
in the open,
stay down until
the bulls have
passed. A
runner was
killed in front
of the town
hall in Plaza
Consistorial in
1995 when,
after being
knocked down by
the crowd, got
back up as the
lead bull
entered the
plaza.
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ESTAFETA:
Once you
reach the end
of Mercaderes
the route takes
a sharp turn to
the right at
the famous, "La
Curva", which
leads onto
Calle Estafeta,
the long,
narrow
canyon-like
street lined
with shops and
tapas bars,
where the doors
have been
boarded up,
giving you
nowhere to hide
once the gate
swings close
behind
you. This
has always been
a dangerous
spot for the
experienced
runner as well
as the novice,
but now, with
the use of the
anti-slip
surfacing on
the smooth
stone pavers at
the corner,
fewer animals
tend fall on
the turn,
reducing the
possibility
that the bulls
will become
separated from
the herd.
But the pace of
the encierro
has picked up
over the last
few years
because of the
anti-slip
surfacing,
creating a new
set of problems
as you run with
the bulls up
Estafet
If you are
running here
you should try
to keep to the
right of the
animals as you
enter
Estafeta.
The bulls will
usually drift
towards the
left, carried
by their weigh
and momentum,
even though
they have
slowed slightly
coming down
Mercaderes.
If you make a
mistake and
find yourself
on the left
side of the
bulls, on the
out side of the
turn, going
into the
corner, you may
wish you were
somewhere
else.
If you make it
through the
corner and are
up for a short
run, you will
find that the
safest place to
run with the
bulls is
between the
white lines,
which used to
mark the curb
and gutter when
the street was
still paved
with
cobblestones.
You will also
find that the
crowd standing
against the
walls along
Estafeta can
prove more
dangerous at
this point than
bulls.
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TELEFONICA:
If you
happen to make
it down the
Calle Estafeta
just ahead of,
or running with
the bulls,
you'll find
yourself at
Telefonica,
which marks the
end of
Estafeta.
Both sides of
this short
section are
lined with a
double row of
wooden
barricades that
directs the
bulls toward
the Callejon
and the
entrance of the
Plaza de
Toros.
Telefonica is
fairly wide,
but the path
quickly narrows
as it breaks to
the left and
slopes down to
the
Callejon.
The pace of the
bulls has
slowed slightly
as they ran up
Estafeta, but
you want to
keep especially
alert here, as
the runners
bunch up,
increasing the
danger,
especially if
the bulls have
separated.
The last runner
to die from a
bull horn, a
third
generation
veteran from
Pamplona, died
pinned against
the barricade,
unable to move
out of the way
because of the
crowd.
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CALLEJON:
This is narrow
corridor, more
of a funnel,
fills rapidly
with bodies and
razor sharp
horns as
runners and
bulls try to
share the same
space at the
entrance to the
bullring.
If you find
yourself here,
you want to
keep moving and
never glance
back.
It's too late
for second
thoughts if a
bull is only
one step behind
you. The
real danger
here is if
someone goes
down either in
the Callejon,
or as you pass
through the
doors of the
bullring.
Several
runners,
including
experienced
ones, have been
seriously
injured when
trapped by a
fighting bull
in the tight
confines
leading into
the
bullring.
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PLAZA
de TOROS:
Once you have
passed through
the doors and
are inside the
bullring, move
quickly to the
left or right,
keeping clear
of the entry
and the center
of the ring,
and keep
alert.
Give the bulls
plenty of room
as they head
towards their
pens on the
other side of
the
Plaza.
Remember, bulls
have excellent
peripheral
vision and
quick
reflexes.
They can turn
on a dime, on
the street or
on the sand,
and be on you
in a flash.
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Balcony
Reservations
Iberian
Traveler is recognized by the
Tourist Office of Spain and the
Government of Navarra as one of
the leading experts on the fiesta
in Pamplona.
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